RESTAURANT REVIEW: Epoch Restaurant & Bar

A crisp brioche bun complements the tender lobster meat and a mayonnaise dressing ties the dish together beautifully.

Nestled in the Exeter Inn, Epoch Restaurant and Bar serves “New American” fare in an intimate—though somewhat outdated—setting. Somehow, the restaurant’s ambiance manages to be both inviting and off-putting. Mismatched walls, dull drapes, and bright red tables contribute to this effect. In essence, it feels like a home that’s stuck in the eighties.

However, the restaurant’s physical character is not an indicator of its cuisine. At any time of day, it succeeds in delivering quality dishes that leave the diner wanting more. The menu, which changes with the seasons, is a celebration of New England’s finest agricultural products; Epoch’s seafood dishes, consisting of a variety of ocean critters, are particularly delicious.

On the dinner menu, the North Country mussels dish ($13.00) is an absolute staple. Though the method of preparation changes each month, these mussels are served year-round at the restaurant. The base broths are phenomenal. The restaurant also stocks fresh mussels rather than frozen ones and cooks them to perfection.

Another highlight is the lobster roll ($22.00), a summer menu item. A crisp brioche bun complements the tender lobster meat and a mayonnaise dressing ties the dish together beautifully. This is a dish capable of pleasing the most fervent of crustacean-haters.

Now, the restaurant’s vegetarian options—though limited—are just as scrumptious. The pappardelle pasta ($20.00), garnished with confit tomatoes, spinach, and roasted shallots, is doused in a rich sauce that brings out the flavor of the dish’s constituents.

For some after-dinner indulgence, the dessert options are varied. The pumpkin whoopie pies ($9.00) are sensually vivid, with gingerbread cake and pumpkin cream steeped with autumn flavors. A single bite reminds a diner of the turning weather of fall, no matter the season. Similarly, sampling the cookie skillet ($9.00) is an experience in and of itself. The molten chocolate blends with the cookie dough to craft a decadent sensory journey for the diner.

Brunch at Epoch is an absolute treat. The restaurant puts its own spin on classics, with the Dubliner omelette ($11.00), New Englander scramble ($10.00) and Florentine benedict ($13.00) standing out from the rest of the options. The Dubliner, in particular, is incredibly well-balanced, with house-made corned beef hash and Vermont cheddar. Breakfast and brunch options are also served with home fries and toast.

I must say, however, that the sandwiches—popular options among the diners—are disappointing. The fried chicken sandwich ($13.00), which came highly recommended, had a soft bun that did not work with the crispiness of the chicken. Moreover, the sauce, which came in tremendous proportions, softened some of the skin and rendered the dish a bit of a mess.

Now, there’s one qualm I have with the meals at Epoch—the hefty price tag. Just a main at Epoch can cost as much as a three-course meal elsewhere. Sure, the food is exquisite, but is it worth the hole in your pocket?

Another inconvenience is that diners at Epoch should be prepared to bring their homework with them. The service can be rather slow, even on less-than-busy nights. On one occasion, I waited thirty-five minutes for my check. Still, for a meal this pricey, the prolonged experience may be just what one wants.

Ultimately, Epoch is a dinner spot that hits the mark on its dishes. Nevertheless, it fails when evaluated for value and decor. A meal will set you, or more specifically your bank account, back a sizeable amount. Epoch is definitely not the place for a casual weekday dinner with friends. Still, every once in a while, an hour or so of sumptuousness may just be the splurge one needs.