Faith, Fashion, and the Coquettification of Catholicism
By ADELE MAMEDOVA ‘25
Over this past Christmas break, I got baptized.
Growing up in a household with divergent religions–my mom an Orthodox Christian, my dad a Muslim–I was naturally raised agnostic. Religion was a topic rarely broached in our family discussions, up until recently, when my mom found her way back into spirituality and began deeply reading the Bible. So there I was, recently flown back home on Dec. 18, when, in conversation, my mom asked me: “Adele, what do you think about getting baptized?” At first, I laughed, thinking it was a joke. I wasn’t Christian, so why would I consider baptism? But as the idea percolated in my mind, I began to see it in a different light. I didn’t have anything to lose, at least by Blaise Pascal’s standards, anyway.At best, I would finally be cleansed of my original sins (and all the ones I’d racked up in my seventeen years), and avoid Limbo. With this in mind, I went to the Church with my mom where I spoke to the pastor and assured him I wasn’t being forced into baptization and I memorized Matthew 6:9-13.
Then, I got to go shopping. First, I needed a cross necklace. I wanted something simple and beautiful–a piece I could wear everyday. One cross had small purple gems, and although it was pretty I didn’t think it would go well with a red shirt, and another with green gems would look ridiculous if I decided to wear yellow despite the color clashing with my color palette. I ended up going for a small but ornate silver cross on a pastel blue rope. At first glance, it appears simple, but a closer squint reveals Jesus with his arms pinned to the cross. Next, I needed a new white dress to symbolize my new, sin-free beginning. After two shops and dozens of aisles, I finally spotted a dress that was both cute and passed the fingertip rule (a rare find!), and was already thinking about how perfect it would work as a beach coverup in the summer.
Subconsciously, I think I got baptized for the Lana Del Rey Christian Coquette Girl aesthetic. But at the time, my reasoning for the baptism was rooted in my belief in Christian values—love, forgiveness, honesty, and more. I had never truly practiced Christianity, so how could I know if it was right for me without giving it a try? And so, I did try. I read Bible verses with my Mom, prayed occasionally, forgave some people who probably didn’t deserve it, and tried to love my enemies. Yet, when asked if I believe in a God, I still find myself uncertain.
But questioning my spirituality is something I can do on my own time. I want to discuss this Lana Del Rey Christian Coquette Girl aesthetic. What is it? Where did it come from, and why was I, along with thousands of others, drawn to it? This aesthetic is a blend of Catholic symbolism and coquettish charm, a style that is characterized by the appropriation of Catholic icons like crosses, rosaries, and imagery of saints. This style began gaining prominence back in the late 1980s, when Madonna released her “Like a Prayer” music video, which used plenty of religious imagery, and played on themes of sexuality and redemption. Women at the time loved Madonna for her fierce unapologeticness, and many wanted to emulate her style. The modern version of this aesthetic gained momentum following the 2018 Met Gala, themed “Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination,” and most recently, the rise of figures like Lana Del Rey and Bella Hadid have further fueled this strange, almost fetishization, of Catholicism.
The allure of Catholic iconography has found its way into the wardrobes of many who may not subscribe to the faith but find beauty and maybe meaning in its symbols. However, this is done on different levels. High fashion designers, such as Chanel, Versace, and Dolce & Gabbana have incorporated Catholic elements into their collections, but most of these designs pay homage to the beauty and opulence of the Catholic Church. Coco Chanel spent her youth in the Aubazine Abbey, and learned to sow while living in that orphanage. It has been noticed that she reused the slim straight cut of nuns’ dresses in making the iconic little black dress, sometimes adding a white collar. Versace’s 1991-1992 collection featured a biker jacket with a bejeweled Mary and an infant Jesus on the back, and their Fall 1997 show featured cross necklaces and Byzantine cross embellishments on clothing. In 2013, Dolce & Gabbana’s Fall collection exhibited the most religious accessories in the history of high fashion, including baroque shoes and cross earrings. Most high-end designers like these are Italian, and there is a certain aspect of sincerity in making these collections with beautiful religious imagery.
Fast-fashion’s adoption of this #catholicaesthetic, however, often feels cheapened, bordering on trashy. ‘Praying’ is a clothing label run by two men, which makes mainly designs with this aesthetic in mind. From their Father, Son, and Holy Spirit bikini to their Hail Mary dress, this brand makes clothes that sexualize women, and particularly preys on the theme of women’s innocence. The #catholicaesthetic is all about softness, sexiness, and submission, which is why Lana Del Rey is often tied to this Catholic aesthetic, as her music holds a tone of docility. Starting with 2021 and going into 2024, anything from pastel blues, lace, slip dresses, cross necklaces, catholic schoolgirl uniforms, rosary beads, ribbons, and baby tees with religious idioms on them, has become seen as “coquette.” People have started to appropriate Catholic culture as a ‘vibe.’
This leads me to my final question: is it okay to wear Catholic-inspired fashion? Some view that Christianity, being a dominant religion with a history of oppression, cannot be appropriated. Many Catholics, on the other hand, have expressed outrage over what I’ve described, labeling Madonna’s music video as “blasphemous,” and over 600 people gathering outside the MET exhibit to protest against their yearly theme in 2018. My own stance mirrors my uncertainty about religion itself. I’m torn between seeing this trend as a trivialization of deeply held beliefs and traditions, and viewing it as a form of appreciation that teeters on the edge of appropriation. In planning for my baptism, was it misguided to select a cross necklace adorned with white diamond-like gems, chosen not only for their spiritual significance, but for their ability to harmonize my wardrobe?