Academy Debates Displays of Wealth

In a swarm of students hustling from one class to another in the frigid New Hampshire weather, several sport fur-lined parkas with a red, white and blue Canada Goose patch or Moncler’s iconic fashion house symbol. Amidst worldwide debate, some Exonians view these $1,000-plus jackets as class markers, while others see them simply as insulation from the cold.

Last November, the headmaster of the Woodchurch High School in England banned Canada Goose and Moncler jackets with the intent of levelling the playing field for students from disparate socioeconomic classes. In a school with 46 percent of their 1,427 students unable to afford the steep price of a luxury jacket, Woodchurch has begun a larger initiative to “poverty proof” their school.

Perception of expensive coat brands varies across campus. Associate Dean of Multicultural Affairs Hadley Camilus noted that, while some students feel some consternation about these items, wealth disparity is a staple of high school life that should motivate rather than discourage. “Speaking from my own experience in high school, I noted that peers had ‘fresher’ sneakers or clothes than I did,” he said. “I never allowed the clothing somebody else wore to determine my own worth.”

Camilus explained that these class markers are also an inevitable reality of elite schools like PEA that cost $53,000 a year for boarders. “[Differences in financial aid] are going to create moments where those who don’t have as much are forced to reflect on what they don’t have,” he said. “Thankfully, adults are reflecting on this issue and thinking about ways to minimize 

the emotional weight that comes with not having as much as some others on campus.”

History Instructor Amy Schwartz, on the other hand, is morally opposed to Canada Goose and Moncler jackets due to the unethical treatment of animals that is a reality of the manufacturing process. “I don’t like the idea of insulting my students or making them feel judged, so I try to joke (rather awkwardly) with them or simply ignore the issue,” she said. “Down is one of the absolutely cruelest fibers we could possible wear. I thought that in 2019, fur was not something that any normatively kind and reasonably socialized person would be willing to put on.”

Schwartz stated that she is, admittedly, complicit in the issue of animal cruelty. “I too wear down, and I always have, although these days I only buy it used,” she said. “There is possibly some hypocrisy in how I feel, but I wish there were more conversation and reflection about the impacts of our consumption.”

The cost is also a dilemma, according to Schwartz, who sees the coats and other similar displays as an obvious flaunting of wealth. “It seems totally inappropriate to me on this campus, but of course that would suggest I am blind to all the other abundant markers of wealth that people wear and display,” she said. “Poorer and middle-class students and their families thus feel that they must sacrifice other things to buy the jacket and keep up appearances, or they simply cannot do so.”

Students opinions also vary due to their experiences with these high fashion coats prior to Exeter. Lower Bizzie Lynch described the climate of her prior school, where displaying wealth was a normalized aspect of school life. “Coming from an NYC private school, I’ve seen a lot of people wear brand names to seem cooler and show off their parents’ money,” she said.

Others, such as lower Nahla Owens, had not before experienced this expensive outerwear culture. “In all honesty, I didn’t even know these brands existed before I arrived at Exeter,” she said. “I personally don’t focus on clothing much, especially coats, because I am from the South.”

According to senior Alan Wu, there seem to be two dominant reasons that students wear these coats. “As far as I understand, they do have functionality as heavy duty parkas designed for extremely cold conditions,” he said. However, Liu believed that the efficacy of the design evolved into an obsession for fashion represented by the patches on the sleeves. “Over time, that patch became a representation of that luxury and thus status and had transcended its original purpose. Once this general perception settled, people just sort of caught on to the trend—maybe even without knowing what’s entirely happening,” he said.

However, senior Eugene Hu, who owns a Canada Goose himself, noted that his coat had nothing to do with flaunting wealth. “Speaking for myself, I buy clothing of these brands for their quality, not their price,” he said. “I haven’t noticed anyone feel uncomfortable around those who wear these brands.”

Lower Charlie Preston took Wu’s thoughts a step further, noting how the coats have even transcended the purpose of fashionability. “I don’t buy it when people say that those coats are for fashion because if that were the case, there wouldn’t be this obsession with spotting the fakes,” he said. “Spotting fake jackets, shoes or bags is just a way of trying to make people feel bad for pretending to have money they don’t have.”

Preston noted that, at times, expensive coats are simply a way to differentiate one group of people from another. “Wearing Canada Goose or Moncler marks you as one of the exclusive ‘in-group’ that has them,” he said.

However, Canada Goose and Moncler are not the only visual indication of wealth on campus. Obvious markers of class are evident outside of down parkas, said lower Christina Xiao, who recalled witnessing a student scoff at a peer in head-to-toe designer clothing.  “I wonder if they were upset because it seemed like that person was trying to show off their wealth too blatantly, or even if there was a bit of jealousy at not being able to afford the same clothes,” she said.

Owens has observed similar trends, noting how even outside visual markers, socioeconomic differences can add stress to students’ Exeter experience. “This wealth disparity can create worry around being able to afford eating out, purchasing gifts around the holidays, going out anywhere in general, participating in club events, purchasing gear, perhaps even being able to do laundry, while their wealthier peers do not have to experience that,” Owens said.

While Xiao notices the wealth disparity, she feels that Exeter proactively discusses these problems. “Many people think about it or express their opinions often here, so it doesn’t seem like a big problem to me,” she said. “However, I’m assuming that there are people who don’t feel comfortable about this, but haven’t spoken up because there’s almost a stigma against having financial aid or not being able to afford these clothing brands.”

Discussions about wealth in general are fraught for people regardless of their socioeconomic status, according to Preston. “We talk about how rich people are, or how much financial aid people are on, and I often find that people are defensive about their economic status, even if they’re on the higher side of the economic spectrum.” he said. “It’s an uncomfortable thing to talk about, but because personal finance is so important to our society as a whole it becomes important to us as Exonians.”

Similar to Preston, Wu also feels that the Exeter campus reflects the larger society in trends of wealth gaps. “The issue of wealth disparity is one of the largest issues facing the country and that only extends into what we see here,” he said. “It shouldn’t be considered overdramatic to say that the wealth disparity or inequality in this country is becoming ridiculous.”

While students noted that the visual indications of wealth are a problem, many feel that the way Woodchurch High School tackled the issue does not reach the core dilemma. “If someone has bought a coat, the administration has no right to take it away as long as it is not obscene,” Preston said. “Getting rid of coats isn’t a solution, the solution is to get rid of income disparities and to take care of each other financially.”

Xiao added that once you take away coats, other visual and non-visual markers of class remain. “These coats can seem like a status symbol, but if you want to eliminate that feeling, you’d be better off having a strict school uniform,” she said. “And even then, jewelry/watches can still contribute.”

One such class marker that would remain, she detailed, is AirPods, wireless Apple earphones that have recently become more popular. “I don’t think there will ever be a time where Exeter isn’t considered an ‘elite’ high school,” Xiao said. “I feel like there will always be some expensive thing that [middle-upper class] people can afford to buy that ends up becoming popular. Another example is AirPods, which are [prevalent] now since a lot of people got them over the holiday season.”

Classical Languages Instructor Paul Langford also spoke to the dress code. Even though students may feel uncomfortable about wealth dynamics, Exeter will probably not change the uniform to accommodate wealth differences. “I would imagine that it’s hard, especially as a teenager, to be acutely aware of different levels of resources from student to student,” he said. “However, we are past the point of changing clothing requirements simply because the faculty would not approve a motion to do so.”

Reflecting upon the nature of class markers, Wu concluded that the meaning of Canada Goose or Moncler would change if the patches on the sleeves were taken off. “[These coats] are a marketing ploy to get wealthy people to purchase coats whose functionality is honestly equivalent to that of a $300 coat from a different brand for an extra $900 or whatever just for that patch on their sleeve,” he said. “It’d be interesting to take off that Canada Goose patch from their coats and ask if they would still buy them or even still want them.”

As this is not quite feasible, however, another way to address this issue is allowing students to wear these items as long as they are conscious of the wealth they represent. The most important thing is awareness. “[Schools should] make sure the students who wear them are aware of what it means and let them make the conscious choice,” Wu said. “If they don’t care or don’t see a problem, let the other students do the work of making them understand.”